Tuesday, December 8, 2009

Some people part 1

The most memorable people that come to mind when I was growing up were all from around Warner Beach. First off was the Braups a group of surfers who hung together and pretty much did everything together. The way the name came about will not be revealed ever. But I will tell you more about the Braups later. There are a handful of guys who were older and kept us all inline. Back then if you did not respect the older surfers you would be buried in your boardbag in the sand and alot more. Alot was more painful and they kept you in your place not like today kids need to be slapped around a bit to keep them respecting there place on the beach. Then there were the older guys who would take you under there wings and push your limits in surfing. Mike Eaton was that guy when I was growing up I remember the waves were 6 foot and at 14 that was huge. He showed me were to jump off the rocks to get to the back and pushed me into bigger waves, this helped alot with my confidence in surfing. Then was the older crew of the Savilles, the Johnstons and of course Cheary, these guys ruled the beach and we looked up to them and they were the bomb to us. They were hardcore they surfed well they partied hard and were guys you did not mess with, of course we always messed with them and paid the price we were always running for our lives from rubbing Vaseline on their boards so they would slip off. They kept us in line but never over did it. There were always some guys who just lost the plot in the water and would throw punches and get beaten up. The one thing you could not do was come to our beach and mess with us we would then gang up on you and kick your arse. That is what localism was then. It was so hardcore that even when we moved to a neighbouring beach I would walk all the way to Warners to surf you would never change your local spot.

1 comment:

  1. Awesome stuff Dylan - Love you my hubby bubbly.

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